The Rising Dominance of Ethics and Sustainability: How Silk is Evolving from a Traditional Material into a Symbol of Modern Fashion
Affectionately known as the ‘Queen of Textiles’, silk had been a significant material in the history of luxury goods production along with its symbolic immortality, which has rightfully earned it this title. The fabric has made its way through all these years, leaving a remarkable impact, especially on the cultural heritage of the developing civilisation. However, what makes it luxurious and alluring is that, through time, it never lost its zest and continues to be charismatic.
As we move forward, though, the nuances found within the luxury industry have evolved much more in recent years. Specifically, the change in buyer demographic has brought about major developments. Rather than just owning goods, consumers are increasingly interested in a product’s intangible characteristics that leave a strong impression rather than just owning goods. Ultimately this has produced an aspiration for sustainable and ethical practices in the luxury industry. Consequently, one must examine the modern developments in consumer behaviour and the subsequent reactions of luxury businesses, combing the diverse facets with particular emphasis on staying relevant in the present and the prospects of the luxury industry of silk.
Cocoons being harvested for silk production. Courtesy of PETA.
Although it is important to look at current perceptions of silk, paying attention to the material’s history is equally significant. The genesis of silk took place in China c.3000 BC, surrounded by mystery and symbolism, which no doubt only adds to its contemporary and historical allure incidents. The story is as follows: It is believed that one afternoon while having tea Empress Leizu (also known as Lady Hsi-Ling-Shih), wife of the Yellow Emperor, came across a moth feeding on mulberry leaves as it dropped right in her teacup, leading her to develop the idea for the fabric which subsequently and earned her the title of ‘Goddess of Silk’.
But as time passed, the production process became a significant factor in the economy of agricultural families due to its labour-intensive requirement making silk a consistent fabric for regular purposes among ordinary people. Moreover, with production being a well-guarded secret, the material’s mystical aspect, and its rapidly growing popularity, the belief that the material was bound with the legend of the Prince of Khotan. The legend tells us about the story of a charming Chinese princess who smuggled silkworm eggs in her elaborate headdress, which only enhanced the already potent desire for silk. This was the first time sericulture expanded outside China's borders and entered new territories around the world, leading to geographical diversification for silk production. Consequently, China influenced the creation of a bridge between the West and East under the Tang dynasty by establishing what today is known as the Silk Route.
Silk Spinning, Chinese Illustration, 1696. Courtesy of History Today Magazine.
This led to further popularity, which extended across an international scale. These impacts were particularly evident, especially among the regions comprising the Persian Empire, e famous for draping silk scarves on and around their head and neck. The Roman Empire was so infatuated with the material that it immediately incorporated it into their daily wardrobe. During this period, silk was so commonly used and so important on a daily basis that it is said the Roman Emperor Elagabalus wore a new silk garment every day since he believed washed garments were meant for the lower class.
Moving towards Modern history, it was during Queen Victoria’s reign, inherited in 1837, that silk scarves were used as a symbol of adornment for royals around the world. As a result, silk quickly became an icon within the luxury industry and would become the stepping stone for the events that started taking place in the 1930s. Specifically, this period marked the establishment of the (still popular) fashion accessory trend of silk scarf square, which originated from great French fashion houses that had just begun to diversify from haute couture into prêt-à-porter. For example, in 1937, the French luxury House Hermès introduced the first scarf using a woodblock believed to resonate with the authenticity of luxury and, to date, continues to be a pioneer in this industry. Since then, the industry has been growing at an exponential rate with fashion icons such as Grace Kelly, who used a Hermès scarf as a sling for her broken arm, Audrey Hepburn, Brigitte Bardot, Bianca Jagger, and Jackie Kennedy incorporating silk scarves into their effortless allure that still kindle the modern generation.
Grace Kelly, Princess of Monaco, August 27, 1959. Courtesy of Sotheby’s.
Today, as we move towards the current luxury market, the industry's ethos is transforming as consumers now expect brands to align the services with their personal values and passion. It is becoming a means for highlighting not only appreciation for the craftsmanship but the values we want as a part of our legacy which is one of the differentiating aspects of luxury as the industry has seen and continues to have a variety of family-owned businesses.
But, there has been significant change with the impact of technological development and the pandemic, along with the need to stay relevant precisely when connecting with customers based on their ideals and moralities. This has caused an acceleration in the adoption of alternative and vegan options amongst the major luxury houses and conglomerates, leading to the establishment of the entwined concept of sustainable and ethical luxury.
Cactus Silk. Courtesy of The Sustainability Fashion Collective.
Silk is a biodegradable fabric and thus leads us to believe that it is sustainable as it exists in nature. But, sustainability is a three-pillar concept involving social, economic, and environmental aspects and is also influenced by ethics leading us to question the claim of silk. The primary issue occurs with obtaining the fabric as it involves boiling or steaming the worms to prevent damage caused when they break out from the cocoon.
According to the Higg Index, a tool commonly used for measuring the overall sustainability within the product supply chain, state that silk has the highest environmental impact of any textile because of its higher water use, pollution levels, and greenhouse gas emissions compared to other fabrics, including those made of plastic. Furthermore, being a labour-intensive process, it is primarily produced in counties with low labour costs and thus, transportation and other production-related activities further damage the environment. It is also notorious for unfair practices regarding labours, not only in terms of fair wages but working conditions as well, since the process of manufacturing silk involves other agents as well, leading to the overall concern for the safety of the workers.
The working environment within silk manufacturing in third world country. Courtesy of Collective fashion Justice.
The recent focus and advancement towards the use of technology has given birth to creative, out-of-the-box ideas. The prime example is the introduction of microsilk, which was launched in March 2017 by Bolt Threads, a materials solutions company focused on amalgamating the elements of sustainability and technology. The material comprises synthetic proteins that are bio-engineered to replicate the DNA properties of silk proteins made by spiders and to process the material through fermentation using yeast, sugar and water.
In October 2017, as a result of the change being caused in the industry, designer Stella McCartney who is among the first few designers and luxury labels to focus on and get recognised for her efforts towards sustainable and ethical fashion, designed a dress using the microsilk fabric for the Museum of Modern Art, New York. Shortly after, ASOS also announced the drop of silk from its collections. Not only this, but the rise of plant-based fibres has given birth to even more production experimentations which have produced phenomenal results, such as silk made from banana, orange peels and even pineapple leaves.
Back side of the Stella McCartney x Bolt Threads dress. Courtesy of Bolt Threads.
Today, when we mention silk, the instant reactions we get are luxury, glamour, and elegance showing how silk has now developed in a dynamic terminology by becoming an attribute. It has become a means to express one’s true self and help appreciate and understand the value of art and culture through the lens of time. The revolution recently bought in the world of luxury, with sustainability and ethics becoming the pillars of the new world, has reconstituted the faith, particularly amongst the younger generations.
However, modernisation does not mean forgetting one’s roots but instead holding them more intensely. It also highlights the importance of being more responsible and finding creative solutions instead of avoiding the consequences of our current actions. The case of silk is a magnificent testimony to these emotions as it shows how silk is metamorphosing through the change into a magnificent and vivid butterfly with a timeless future ahead.
Khushboo Kedia
The Luxury Edit Co-Editor, MADE IN BED