Hometown Heroes: The Stories Behind Iconic Designs
Every cult-followed designer is known for a distinctive style. Be it ethical cashmere, red-soled stilettos, or punk-rock graphics; the origin stories of these designs are typically less familiar than the names behind them. The following stories from four visionary designers go beyond marketing ploys — they are models on how to make the most of the cards you’re dealt.
Iconic “Kate” Louboutin Pump. Photo Courtesy: Christian Louboutin
Take Brunello Cucinelli. What 25-year-old Brunello lacked in financial literacy he made up for in devout enthusiasm for his craft. Growing up in a sharecropper family, Brunello notes that “farming life was a reality where every human condition turned into a precious memory for us little ones.” [1] Being raised on a farm imbued his desire to create colored cashmere sweaters with a commitment not to harm nature. He was so enamored with this goal that in 1978, he dropped out of engineering school with a $550 loan to launch his fashion line. Long before sustainable luxury was fashionable, Brunello has prioritized ethical production and working conditions.
Brunello’s father, Umberto Cucinelli, instilled in him the power of actions over words. In “A Letter to My Father,” Brunello expresses profound gratitude for Umberto. One lesson he received from his father was the value of human life, a virtue that was exemplified by a night when Umberto rode urgently to a distant pharmacy to fetch medicine for a sick child. Although the medicine arrived in time, he couldn't save the child. For years, Brunello believes this memory of his father is the ultimate “symbol of love for people, a love that knows no hindrance, has no doubts about how to act and knows how to defy the impossible to save a human life.” [2]
16 Year-Old Brunello (Left) Brunello in 2008 (Right). Photo Courtesy: Brunello Cucinelli
Another lesson from his father was about the dignity of human beings, regardless of their status or circumstances. This lesson was particularly impactful when the family moved to the outskirts of Perugia. Brunello recalls his father's tearful eyes when he was unjustly treated while working at a factory. Witnessing his pain cemented in Brunello the importance of respect and dignity for all people — a principle that has guided his interactions, business practices, and remains in the DNA of his $7.8 billion company. [3]
In 1963, about 800 miles from Cucinelli’s hometown of Umbria, Christian Louboutin was born in Paris. Early on, Louboutin showed little interest in formal education. He was the youngest of four children, growing up mostly under the care of his mother and sisters. One day, during a visit to a museum, he saw a sign prohibiting high heel shoes. This minor occurrence sparked his fascination with footwear, leading him dream up fantastical shoe designs inspired by Roger Vivier, designer for Christian Dior in the 1950s.
Christian Louboutin. Photo Courtesy: Tatler Asia
Louboutin was expelled from school at age 16. In the early 1990s, he decided it was time to launch his own line of women’s shoes. The inspiration for his trademark red soles came in 1993 from a simple, serendipitous moment: his assistant was painting her nails red, and he decided to color the soles of his shoes with the same nail polish. "I thought, 'Oh my god! Red soles are so flirtatious,' and my customers asked me not to stop," Louboutin told Footwear News in an interview. [4]
Today, red soles are unmistakable for any other designer. They are the eccentric finishing touch that allows the wearer to distinguish themselves.
Known as the Mother of Punk, Vivienne Westwood is another fearless innovator known for bold statements. During her childhood in Derbyshire, England, Westwood recounts: "I lived in a part of the country that had grown up in the Industrial Revolution…I didn't know about art galleries…I'd never seen an art book, never been to the theatre." [5]
She may not have been born into elite London society; but she certainly influenced it. In the 1960s, Westwood met Malcolm Mclaren, future manager of the Sex Pistols. While the hippie movement was the most popular fashion in London; Westwood and Mclaren rejected this style and instead were drawn to acts of rebellion and 1950s clothing, music, and memorabilia. Vivienne attributes the explosion of her creative freedom to Mclaren because he introduced her to the political power of art.
Vivienne Westwood’s Changing Store Names. Photo Courtesy: Vivienne Westwood
In 1971, they opened a small boutique called Let it Rock on King’s Road in Chelsea. By 1974, the boutique, now named Sex, became known for its provocative T-shirts with printed slogans, leading to prosecution under the 1959 Obscene Publications Act. In response, they produced even more provocative designs. The shop was refitted and renamed Worlds End in 1980, which still exists today.
Throughout the changing names of 430 King’s Road, Westwood used her creations to communicate ideas, often confronting political, social, and environmental injustices through graphic designs. English designer Jasper Conran once explained the influence she had on the rest of the world: "Vivienne does, and others follow." [6]
Another global trend-setter is Belgian-American Diane von Furstenberg. Born to a Romanian father and a Greek-born, Jewish mother who was a Holocaust survivor, von Furstenberg was brought up in Brussels. She attended the University of Geneva, where she met her first husband, Prince Egon zu Fürstenberg. They moved to New York in 1969, where von Furstenberg began her career in fashion. Although she had no financial need to work due to her marriage, she craved independence and wanted to establish her own identity.
After arriving in New York City in 1970, Diane showcased her first collection at the Gotham Hotel. She was motivated to share her designs by her friend and former Vogue editor Diana Vreeland. Later on, Diane describes Vreeland as an extraordinary woman who took her under her wing and pushed her into the world of fashion.
The most renowned design that Diane shared was the wrap dress – inspired by a combination of practicality and keen observation of trends. In 1972, von Furstenberg saw Julie Nixon Eisenhower on television wearing one of her wrap tops paired with a matching skirt. This sight sparked the idea to combine the two garments into a single piece.
The Wrap Dress on the Catwalk in 1973. Photo Courtesy: Harper’s Bazaar
The dress was an instant sell-out. By 1975, she was producing 15,000 dresses a week. The wrap dress became a symbol of women's liberation in the 1970s, embodying both femininity and practicality. It resonated with women of all ages and body types, selling millions and making von Furstenberg an icon of female empowerment. By the late 1970s, she had transferred the license for her dress designs to Puritan Fashions Corporation, ultimately distancing herself from her brand by selling her cosmetics line to Beecham Pharmaceuticals, thus losing control over the DVF name. [7]
The wrap dress’ success solidified von Furstenberg's legacy as a designer who understood and responded to the needs of modern women. Her creation was more than just a dress; it was a cultural phenomenon that represented freedom and self-expression.
Brunello Cucinelli once said that the deepest meaning of any human action lies in our origins. [8] No matter if you’re French or Italian, rich or starting with a $550 loan, these designers prove there is incredible potential for creating something beautiful, practical, or simply daring. While we often think that creativity is predetermined, perhaps it is only our starting point that is set.
Footnotes:
[1] Brunello Cucinelli, "My Life." Brunello Cucinelli.
[2] Brunello Cucinelli, “Letter To My Father.” Brunello Cucinelli.
[3] Brunello Cucinelli, “The Business Model.” Brunello Cucinelli Investor Relations.
[4] Biography.com Editors. "Christian Louboutin Biography." Biography.com.
[5] Susannah Frankel, “Meet the grande dame of Glossop.” The Independent.
[6] Cathy Horyn, “The Queen of Extreme.” New York Times.
[7] Marie Claire, “Diane von Furstenberg’s Style History In Dresses.” Marie Claire.
[8] Brunello Cucinelli, “The Origins of the Company.” Brunello Cucinelli.
Lily Holmes
Luxury Editor, MADE IN BED