Hannah Martin: The Rebel Redefining Luxury Jewellery

Hannah Martin is not conventional luxury jewellery. With a design philosophy rooted in punk music, rebellion, and craftmanship, the brand opens a distinctive niche in the world of fine adornments. Unlike traditional luxury jewellery mansions that lean on heritage and opulence, Martin’s collections embody a raw energy—integrating the craftmanship of high jewellery with the rebellious spirit of punk. From her latest collection, The Perfect Drug, to past works inspired by political upheaval and personal transformation, Martin keeps challenging the notion of luxury. 

By expressing her heartbreak through metal, referencing erotic surrealism, and engineering sensual pieces that "take the heat off" like pearls, Martin embodies the ethos that punk, at its heart, is about radical honesty and creating new narratives from personal experience. In that way, she continues the tradition of punk as self-expression—not through replication of the past, but through constant evolution. 

Hannah Martin. Photo Courtest: British Vogue.

A Jewellery Designer Born from Rebellion and Crafting Emotion 

A Central Saint Martin’s graduate who has worked at prestigious brands such as Cartier, Chaumet, and Louis Vuitton, Hannah Martin launched her own brand in 2006, challenging the status quo of the industry. [1] Over the past years, she built a reputation for avant-garde designs that blurred the boundary of gender and between jewellery and art. Her jewellery usually features precious metal, spikey gemstones, and sculptural silhouettes.  

Martin’s work is deeply sensual, often drawing inspirations from her personal experience. Her latest collection, The Perfect Drug, was inspired by the emotional release she experienced at a Nine Inch Nails concert following a heartbreak. Surrounded by the heat, noise, and energy of the crowd, she felt a powerful sense of human connection—an intense, almost transcendental moment that ultimately gave rise to 26 delicately crafted pieces. 

Pieces from The Perfect Drug Collection. Photo Courtesy: hannahmartinlondon.com

Music has always been the source of inspiration for Martin’s designs. She has collaborated with several musicians. FKA Twigs, Rhianna, Self Esteem, and Coldplay bassist Guy Berryman have all worn her jewellery pieces.  

Tom of Finland, "Untitled (0001)", 1978. Photo Courtesy: Artsy.

The Perfect Drug collection incorporates surrealist and erotic influences, referencing artists like Man Ray and Tom of Finland. Elements like chainmail, harnesses, and straps and gags all construct the sensuality of the collection and its playful undertone. 

Martin’s A New Act of Rebellion Collection, 2020. Photo Courtesy: British Vogue.

The previous collection, A New Act of Rebellion, reflected a similar desire for freedom and self-expression. Drawing on punk symbolism—safety pins, bolts, and unconventional structures—it responded to the global turbulence of 2020, marked by the COVID-19 pandemic, widespread political unrest, and the emotional reckoning following George Floyd’s murder. “The pieces should give their wearer strength and power—right now this is something we could definitely all do with” Martin told Vogue. [3] The collection also featured a campaign film made by Peaky Blinder’s Anthony Byrne, and starred punk musician Jenny Beth, reinforcing the brand’s roots in rebellious spirits. [4]

Niche Fashion, Punk, and the Future of Jewellery  

Look from Henri Alexander Levy’s Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection, Enfants Riches Déprimés. Photo Courtesy: Vogue Runway.

Martin’s distinctive brand identity also places her within a broader industry trend towards niche jewellery, where it is gaining increasing momentum among young customers. In China, Gen Z dominates jewellery consumption by 56%, driven by desire for self-expression and personalization. [5] Niche brands like Hannah Martin Jewellery differentiate themselves from other heritage brands in the luxury jewellery market by offering pieces with emotional resonation and high-quality craftsmanship. As Lucia Liu, founder of Useless Objects, notes, "young consumers are valuing items that can help them express their own personalities more, rather than a product that everyone may have". [5] 

From classic punk brand Vivienne Westwood to modern niche brands like Hannah Martin Jewellery, and Enfants Riches Déprimés, who deliberately positions itself as ‘elitist punk’. [6] The aesthetic and ideology of these luxury and fashion brands demonstrate another subtle layer of punk and luxury, tracing back to the historical debates surrounding punk culture--the line between authentic rebellion and commodified style has long been contested. [7] Can a luxury studded jacket still be punk? Or is punk now more about the intent and individuality behind the creation with the rising luxury consumption of Gen Z? Martin seems to land firmly in the former camp—one where punk is less about surface symbols and more about emotion, resistance, and reinvention. 

For Martin, jewellery is an extension of self-expression—an intimate, wearable art form that captures the complexities of human emotion. As she reflects on her creative journey, she notes, “Every time that I do a collection, it’s deeply personal. I feel like this one is almost a coming-of-age collection. It’s the most honest I have been”. In an industry often defined by polished perfection, Martin’s embrace of imperfection, raw emotion, and individuality sets her apart as one of the most compelling voices in contemporary jewellery design. 

Find more about Hannah Martin and her work here.

Many thanks to Lucy Ward for her time and remarks on behalf of MADE IN BED.

Footnotes

[1] Bischof, Felix. ‘Jewellery’s Princess Of Punk Unleashes Her Most Personal Collection Yet’. British Vogue, 23 October 2024. https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/hannah-martin-jewellery-the-perfect-drug. 

[2] Lucy Ward, interview by Yujie Liu, December 16, 2024, Hannah Martin Studio, London. 

[3] Garrahan, Rachel. ‘Why Hannah Martin’s New Jewellery Collection Is Right For Right Now’. British Vogue, 1 July 2020. https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/hannah-martin-new-rebellion-collection. 

[4] A New Act Of Rebellion - Campaign Film, 2020. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9bfSaRECAQ. 

[5] Lisa Nan. ‘The Rise and Rise of the Niche Jewelry Market | Jing Daily’. Accessed 4 February 2025. https://jingdaily.com/posts/niche-jewelry-chinese-market-uselessobjects-lucia-liu. 

[6] Karl Smith. ‘Marvin | A PUNK ROCK MESSIANIC VISION FOR THE FUTURE | Henri Alexander Levy Reveals Inspiration and Ethos for ENFANTS RICHES DÉPRIMÉS’. Accessed 9 April 2025. https://marvin.la/henri-alexander-levy-reveals-inspiration-and-ethos-for-enfants-riches-deprimes/. 

[7] Singer, Maya. ‘Punk’s Luxury Legacy and the Frisson of Rebellion’. https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20130424-can-luxury-fashion-ever-be-punk. 

Marina Yujie Liu

Luxury Edit Co-Editor, MADE IN BED