From Impressionism to Avant-Garde: The Sculptural Symphony in Les Jardins d'Etretat
“I like this place and could willingly waste my time in it.”
- William Shakespeare
If one would want to experience the amalgamation of history, abundant nature, art and technology, there will not be a more idyllic setting than of Les Jardins d’Etretat. This spellbinding garden rests on the slopes of pointed Alabaster coast, called L'Aiguille or the Needle, cascading down towards the sea; renowned for its picturesque chalk cliffs and enthralling La Porte d’Aval – a natural arch rock formation. Mounted in enchanting Normandy, Les Jardins d’Etretat provide a latitude for true artistic expression. The garden is a blend of eloquent poetry of living sculptures and contemporary art that stimulate all the senses and engross one in serenity and drama all at once.
Les Jardins d’Etretat. Photo Courtesy: Richard Bloom
The garden was designed in La Belle Epoque period by a renowned French actress Madame Thebault in early twentieth century, around the villa that she bought atop the cliff, which she named after her favourite heroine, Roxelana, the wife of Suleiman the Magnificent. Inspired by the oeuvre of the famous impressionist Claude Monet, who first visited Etretat town in 1883 and produced magnificent paintings of the striking landscapes, Madame Thebault set to embody the artwork of her dear friend in her beloved retreat. To Thébault, Monet’s series of paintings ‘Cliffs at Etretat’ sparked the start of what would become a transformation into the elaborate charming garden grounds.
Claude Monet, Falaise d’Aval a Étretat, 1883.
A single tree planted on her land with a view of the Aiguille Creuse rock, opened her imagination to exquisite gardening ideas thereafter. Thus, the garden's close association with Impressionism laid the groundwork for its subsequent evolution into an art movement's flag bearer. The garden was kept secret for many years, and it was only a privilege to know about its existence. What once was the privacy of the woman who needed no company but that of nature, the murmur of which was as filled with the creative discourse here as was the whisper of the leaves, later set out to become a world-renowned destination.
Madam Thebault and Villa ‘La Roxelane’ then and now. Les Jardins d’Etretat. Photo Courtesy: Richard Bloom.
The Normandy coast and spectacular cliffs of Etretat enamoured Claude Monet and many other artists in the past such as Eugène Boudin, Gustave Courbet, Eugène Delacroix and Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot. ‘Such cliffs cannot be found anywhere’, quoted Monet. Paying an eloquent tribute to the key figure of Impressionism, the pair Agnieszka Gradzik and Wiktor Szostalo placed a notable sculpture of Monet and his easel ‘Following Claude Monet's gaze’, overlooking the breathtaking Normandy coastline that Monet painted in late nineteenth century. Interestingly, the sculpture is a part of the Tree Hugger Project by Agnieszka Gradzik and Wiktor Szostalo and is made entirely from wood. [1] A sensitive transition between the present and the past, the artists draw the audience’s attention to Monet’s stance. Captivated by the muse, Monet invites us on a contemplative visual journey as though through his eyes, and grounds us in shared heritage of the place. Young artists embody the inspiration and oftentimes stand by the sculpture to paint.
Agnieszka Gradzik and Wiktor Szostalo, Following Claude Monet's gaze, Les Jardins d’Etretat. Photo Courtesy: Matteo Carassale.
The Etretat Gardens underwent a sensational revival in 2017 with the help of the gifted landscape designer Alexandre Grivko. He held a strong belief that garden could not exist without art. A pathfinder of its striking and experimental topiary the work of Grivko expanded and transformed the territory into a sanctuary of greens and a sculptured maze of numerous art installations making his avant-garde vision come to life. With the art blended into a sequence of visually designed environments in an ingenious way, the La Belle Epoque villa is now a permanent gateway into the history of the garden in the centre of it all. Grivko paid homage to the Impressionist movement that the site is associated with while injecting it with a new-age feel. “I tried to design a sensory and very imaginative type of garden space, which immerses us into different worlds with a change of perspective at every turn and with a great feel for its historical origins but also cautiously leading to the future and my own vision”, says Grivko. Grivko focused on the idea of making forms of art resemble the nature and placing art such that it compliments and communicates with the natural landscape.
Alexandre Grivko vision, Jardin d’Aval, was inspired by Alice in Wonderland. Les Jardins d’Etretat. Photo Courtesy: Matteo Carassale.
Les Jardins d'Étretat is divided into seven sections: Jardin Avatar at the entrance; the ocean-themed Jardin Émotions inspired by France's first oyster farm; Jardin Impressions overlooking the ocean and Étretat cliffs; the whimsical Jardin d'Aval inspired by Alice in Wonderland; Jardin Zen for quiet reflection and relaxation; Jardin La Manche with intricate topiary mazes; and Jardin d'Amont, the highest point, showcasing cliff-shaped topiaries resembling Normandy’s Alabaster Coast.
The neo-futuristic ideas infused in the garden style make it a place of a versatile design and a place of ‘complex dialogue’ between the art, nature and technology as outlined in Vito di Bari’s, ‘Neo-Futuristic City Manifesto’, 2007, an innovation strategist, whom Alexandre Grivko was particularly influenced by.
The visual appeal is guaranteed throughout the year with evergreen plants and over 150,000 different species of plants including abundance of flowers, especially orchids with some rare varieties, that Madame Thébault was especially fond of. Some of the specimens were restored from the original collection found in the archives of her gardener Auguste Lecanu. It is a fitting way to remember Madame Thébault and celebrate her talent and love of art and nature," said Grivko.
A very rare orchid specimen, Lady's slipper orchid in orange. Les Jardins d’Etretat. Photo Courtesy: Helene Guihard.
The Etretat Gardens can truly be said to illustrate the art of topiary. Aesthetically, Grivko has used a very delicate work of hedges and shrubs that resemble the waves of the sea and arches of the cliffs. This elaborated topiary work turns into living sculptures and establish the sequence of the 'outdoor rooms,' each with a different mood and impressive views of the La Manche. His design ‘Whirlpool’ for example, an enormous vortex-like structure, that evokes a powerful representation of sea movement; ‘Waves and Arches’, ‘Jardin La Manche’, ‘Jardins d’Amont’ – are other captivating sculptural topiaries that accentuate terrain of the garden. Such elegant interventions make for eloquent animated space inviting guests to perceive the presence of the living ecosystem paying tribute to the natural phenomena of Normandy and celebrating its biodiversity with elegant horticultural craft.
The guests are invited to wander through this living open-air museum in which, with each new turn of the path, one gets a different view of the awe-inspiring surroundings subverting expectations and compelling visitors to appreciate art in all its forms. The topiaries are accompanied with the permanent en plein air contemporary art collection which is complimented with the temporary Double Jeu collection that rotates every summer.
Jardin Impressions, Les Jardins d’Etretat. Photo Courtesy: Richard Bloom.
One of the most notable permanent art installations is the ‘Drops of Rain’ by Spanish artist Samuel Salcedo. It is a set of giant realistic heads, which are sculpted with different, overemphasised facial expressions. They appear to be growing out of the ground and are intended to depict the versatile emotions of the ocean, adding fantasy and playful absurdity to the environment, encouraging people to ponder over the interconnection of nature and a man. Nested in Jardin Emotions topiary, the carefully shaped, mollusc resembling forms of Buxus sempervirens evergreen shrubs that supposedly reflect the habitat of oysters. The first French oyster farm of Marie Antoinette that was historically situated at the bottom of the Cliff d’Amont inspired this idea. This is one of the indicative examples of intentional interplay between the rich history and contemporary art within the garden grounds.
Samuel Salcedo, Jardin Emotions, Les Jardins d’Etretat. Photo Courtesy: Richard Bloom.
Samuel Salcedo, Jardin Emotions, Les Jardins d’Etretat. Photo Courtesy: Richard Bloom.
The "Table and Benches" by German artist Thomas Rösler, accompanies the garden in its stillness [2]. Another artwork ‘Boat’ situated in the Impressions area is intentionally placed to provide the best vantage point of the most famous cliffs of Etretat. The works of Rösler is aimed at making people take a break and peacefully contemplate the beautiful scenery.
Thomas Rösler, Table and Benches. Les Jardins d’Etretat. Photo Courtesy: Bien Voyager
Yet another permanent installation by artist Alyona Kogan ‘Seashell’ hanging over the cascading garden pathways represent the harmony this magnificent location.
Alyona Kogan, Seashell. Les Jardins d’Etretat. Photo Courtesy: Bein Voyager
The garden opened its grounds for visitors in 2016 and has been internationally recognised since. Les Jardins d’Etretat is a recognised UNESCO heritage site. In 2019, the gardens were awarded the European Garden Award for the 'Best development of a historic park or garden’, received Green Guide Michelin star, and was labelled as ‘Remarkable Garden’ as well as listed as one of the ‘Greatest Gardens of the World’. These recognitions enabled Les Jardins d'Etretat to serve as exemplary model for modern landscape architecture and cultural enhancement.
The Etretat Gardens support emerging artists through a dedicated artist-in-residence program, inviting talents from various art fields to create inspired works within the unique setting of Etretat. This initiative has resulted in a mix of temporary and permanent installations, ensuring the gardens remain a dynamic and evolving artistic environment. The program enhances visitor experiences and promotes cultural exchange by uniting artists from diverse backgrounds. Since its inception, Jardins d'Étretat has hosted over 50 artists, through exhibitions, residencies, performances, and interventions, creating a vibrant network that connects artists, the local community, and international visitors.
Jardins d'Étretat is dedicated to advancing regional artistic and cultural growth. It nurtures creativity, fosters interdisciplinary collaboration, and encourages synergy among different fields. By connecting local organisations with artists, gardeners, and researchers, the gardens have become a center for rich and complex dialogue.
Transitioning from a private sanctuary to an international sculpture garden, they encapsulate the evolution of artistic expression. The Etretat Gardens exemplify the harmonious coexistence of nature, art, and history. By honoring the Impressionist tradition while embracing modern art within a natural setting, the Etretat Gardens stand as a testament to artistic innovation and cultural preservation.
Footnotes:
[1].https://layylaovertherooftopsoftheworld.wordpress.com/2013/01/11/the-treehugger-project/
[2]. Etretat Gardens. Normandy Tourism, France (n.d.). https://en.normandie-tourisme.fr/discover/heritage-and-architecture/take-a-break-from-the-norm/etretat-gardens/
Sources:
[1]. https://etretatgarden.fr/en
[2]. https://www.normandythenandnow.com/monets-unquiet-heart-in-etretat/
Anastassia Taylor
En Plein Air Co-Editor, MADE IN BED
